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Postcard view

Posted 1 September 2007 - Riga (LV):

The Latvian independence and freedom monument:

(© Riga - LV, September 2007)
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Cold wet windy scary dark

Posted 2 September 2007 - Sigulda (LV):

It`s rainy, windy and cold in Latvia (photo 1 and 2)! I arrived in Sigulda today and am staying at the other side of the river, somewhere in the middle of nowhere but next to a some kind of castle (photos 3 and 4) I`m the only one here and it`s really dark now... Heading for Cesis and Valmiera tomorrow, that`s further north towards Estonia where I hope to arrive the day after tomorrow.

(© Riga/Sigulda, September 2007)
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Last stop in Latvia

Posted 3 September 2007 - Valmiera (LV):

I`m surfing a couch again, this time in Valmiera with Nils and Lelde. This morning, I have been discovering Latvia`s Little Switzerland, cruising through the forests around Sigulda. A just-over-one-hour train ride took me to Valmiera. I`m in a perfect geographical position now to reach the last Baltic country tomorrow. I am heading for the student city of Tartu tomorrow, with a possible stopover in Valka/Valga - a city on the border of Latvia and Estonia. I will try to collect some Latvian jokes about the Estonians. They call them `slow` as in not very intelligent. Let`s see what that will bring :) Below photos show the area around Valmiera`s train station. Perfect for graphical compositions!

(© Valmiera - LV, September 2007)
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Posted 4 September 2007 - Tartu (EE):

Country number four is called Estonia, and this is another country I have never visited before. The first impressions are very positive: the country seems to be quiet, things make sense and the sky is beautiful. There are 25 Crown banknotes, which brings back old memories of when Holland still had guilders. I am now in Tartu, a small university town in the south east of Estonia. I am planning to get back to the seaside by the end of this week, then along the coast up to Tallinn. I will have to skip the Russian town of Narva, but will certainly write about the recent arguments between Russians and Estonians.

Photos: bus station in Valka (LV), border between Latvia and Estonia (marked in black and white), train from Valga to Tallinn (EE) during stop in Tartu.

(© Valka - LV / Tartu - EE, September 2007)
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Late summer

Posted 5 September 2007 - Tartu (EE):

I spent a nice day today walking around Tartu. Schools and universities started on Monday so there is plenty of people around. The weather is very nice - a good improvement compared to the last few days. I have been thinking about what I should do or want to do when I finish this year of travelling, even though that moment is still 11 months away from now. It would be interesting to do some studies in political science or social geography, or maybe expand the commercial photo activities, or... We`ll see. I will stay in Tartu one more day and then take a bus to the western side of the country to see some nature.

(© Tartu - EE, September 2007)
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Productive in Tartu

Posted 6 September 2007 - Tartu (EE):

Today was a very productive day in Estonia. I like it here, it`s not that I didn`t enjoy the other countries, but Tartu is just a perfect place to sit and work, think a little and feel at ease. While here, I am trying to tune the website a little to make it more attractive for other media to include my project in their coverage.

Some people have told me that they would like to see a little more humour in the project. I am sorry to say that I will not find a lot more space for jokes and my usual random observations. I am now collecting information, and I will certainly have some funny stuff to share with you when I`m done with that. My eyes and ears are still open to funny stuff, but I am trying to keep them a bit separate from the real work.

Tonight will be the third night in Tartu, where I have been staying with Tarmo and his daughter Mari. Mother Anni was away to Tallinn but came back tonight. It`s nice to be here and I am very well taken care off. Even though that doesn`t keep me from moving on to the next place tomorrow. Viljandi, two hours west from here, where I will be speaking with Kristiine who is a journalist. She will maybe interview me so the Us Europeans project is about to get some extra exposure. After the weekend, and after some additional improvements to the site, I will do another round along different media to make more out of the project. Wish me luck, with this photo of the Russian church in Ventspils (LV). On this Thursday evening, I will probably be the first to wish you a good weekend.

(© Ventspils - LV, August 2007)
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Stop-over in Viljandi

Posted 7 September 2007 - Viljandi (EE):

Another day in Estonia and it has been very useful but not very rich in photos. One of the few I did take is the one below: a green house. Houses are nice here, I can`t think of any other reason why I keep photographing them here.

I travelled from Tartu to Viljandi, which was originally intended to be a station on the way to the Soomaa National Park but Kristiina, who I got in contact with through CouchSurfing, convinced me to stay a little longer so she could interview me. I guess I will appear in the local newspaper next Monday, how exciting, after earlier appearances in Sweden and Poland. I will of course post a link when this one is out.

I have also been taking the previous day to do some maintenance work on the website and add some new features. Most exciting so far, although not yet entirely functional: the All Photo Page. When this round of upgrades is complete, I will try to find some more people to write about the Us Europeans project.

(© Viljandi - EE, September 2007)
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Bog side

Posted 9 September 2007 - Joesuu (EE):

Sunday sportsday but I`m depending on circumstances here, so I do not always have the opportunity. I did today and joined a group of Estonians and one New Zealandster on a tour through a part of Soomaa National Park. We walked through forest and crossed bogs for about 4 hours without meeting anybody else on our way, or finding any sign of human life. No tracks, just colourful nature, lots of mushrooms, berries, moss, insects, trees, lizards, mice... Photo below: Rait and Raimo testing the `road` ahead.

(© Soomaa National Park - EE, September 2007)
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Cutting hair to miss the bus

Posted 10 September 2007 - Kuressaa (EE):

I got up early this morning to catch the today`s second and last bus to Pärnu, at 07h40. Then I found out that somebody had a razor so I could cut my hair. It made me miss the bus by 2 minutes. A friendly guy who was going in the same direction allowed me to catch up with the bus and deposited me in Tori - the same place where I has started walking to the hostel two days ago. The bus took me to Pärnu and then I took another one to Kuressaare, on the island of Saaremaa. I slept for almost all of the 4-hour drive, except the ferry-crossing.

It was raining on Saaremaa island and I soon found out that summer is really over now. The youth hostel, actually a school building, shut down the hostelling activities on the last day of August. Guest houses were the only alternative, but since those cost about the same here as do youth hostels, that was not much of a problem. I found one, left my stuff and walked back into the city.

It kept raining in small drizzles, so I found myself a place inside with internet access so I could continue working on website. Since PHP drives you crazy after a while, and also because a drunk Finnish guy invited me for a game of chess, I interrupted my activities to even the scores: during this trip I now won once (against this Finnish guy) and lost once (against Czech Pavel in Dublin).

I spent the rest of the evening talking PHP and German with one interviewee who did not speak English. He was lucky that I am always very motivated to speak German whenever and wherever I go, so that worked out quite well. Mit Fingerspitzengefuehl, one could say. Then it got so late that I could get no food anymore and I hadn`t eaten a lot during the day. My dinner consisted of a small fruit pie and a glass of plum juice. When I walked `home` after 1 o`clock, the city was completely empty and dark.

(© Kuressaare - EE, September 2007)
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Milk in beer glasses

Posted 11 September 2007 - Kuressaare (EE):

Another day of PHP-messing, and I have not taken any photos except the one needed for Us Europeans. Hence the `archive photo` from the Soomaa National Park featuring people looking for fresh cranberries.

Us Europeans look(s) slightly different now, with another subsection to help other websites include Us Europeans on their website. Want to see what it looks like? All of the rest is now in one page and although there are some other things I want to change to make posting the stories easier and make Google tracking possible but this is enough for now. I need to have some things to do when the weather gets colder.

Otherwise, not much interesting activity today. It was sunny again, with higher temperatures than yesterday. When I woke up, a whole school of children was marching by. Probably to celebrate the beginning of the new year but that was already a week ago. Interesting other facts: people drink milk here with hot meals, and they drink it from the same glasses as beer. That is an absolutely forbidden thing to do in Holland, but nobody seems to care here..

I`m going to Tallinn tomorrow, Estonia`s capital. Beside some day trips from there, I will use it as a departure port to get to Finland by the end of this week!

(© Soomaa National Park - EE, September 2007)
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Meeting people in Tallinn

Posted 12 September 2007 - Tallinn (EE):

It took me four hours today to get to Tallinn, the capital of Estonia. The first photo shows the `Bronze Soldier`, which removal from the centre of Tallinn caused political arguments between Estonia and Russia. Well, I can only say that they Did hide it well - it was quite hard to find it. Next photos are some of the streets outside the old town centre. I will shoot some pics from the beautiful buildings later on.

Another nice thing to mention: when I got to the hostel in Tallinn, I walked into two people I actually knew! They both participated in the 1996 and 1998 Euro and World cup football pools I organised with Joachim! It`s his sister and her boyfriend. We had dinner together and talked about their one-year trip around the world. They will leave on the Trans Siberia Express tomorrow, quite exciting and definitely something I also want to do before I get very old.

(© Tallinn - EE, September 2007)
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Paldiski, Pildaski, Padilksi, Pladiski

Posted 13 September 2007 - Tallinn (EE):

Another excursion to the Baltic past today. Together with American Tyson, I walked around in Paldiski - an old military Soviet base that used to be inaccessible to civilians up until the early 1990s. Nothing much exciting for the distance we walked, but here is some details that at least looked interesting.

(© Paldiski - EE, September 2007)
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Posted 14 September 2007 - Tallinn (EE):

I made it to the first local newspaper :) It's the one from Viljandi that I was talking about earlier and here is the link. I don`t know what it reads, I will try to find somebody to tell me tomorrow on the ferry to Helsinki. Here`s the link.

Spent today walking around with Marju and Kadri, talking about Estonia, Holland and the EU, then later on with a guy I met when I was in Latvia: Alex from Belarussia. He told me a lot about life over there and we had some philosophical discussions about politics which was more interesting than it sounds. Photo below is another monument reminding of the Soviet liberation of Tallinn. It is not very well preserved, but it has still kept its Soviet massiveness.

(© Tallinn - EE, September 2007)
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From In to Under the newspaper

Posted 15 September 2007 - Helsinki (FI):

Hello from Helsinki! No disasters on the ferry, certainly not like the one with the Estonia, now 13 years ago. I was discussing that accident with some people and it seems like the tragedy has never been properly investigated. There havee been no solid conclusions leaving room for many rumours and conspiracy theories, see here.

Anyway, I did make it safely to Finland. It was raining, grey and cold in the morning but has been sunny and almost warm throughout the afternoon. Everything in the shops by the way is )*#&(*& expensive!!! And busy! The hostel in Tallinn was almost empty last Thursday and since high season is over, I thought Helsinki would be doable without a reservation but it`s not. I have not found a place to stay yet. There is a Couch Surfing meeting in town later on, so I hope somebody will lend me his /her couch,,

(© Helsinki - FI, September 2007)
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Rain and sun in Finland

Posted 16 September 2007 - Helsinki (FI):

After my arrival in Helsinki yesterday, I seriously hated Finland for at least two hours. Fortunately, things got much better since then, up to the point that today was the best interview day since the start of the project. The rain faded out, the sun appeared and I was lucky finding a place to sleep. I did not have any place until half past 8, but I knew a Couch Surfing meeting was planned at 8 in some local bar. So just went there to check it out, hoping that somebody would be ready to help me out. Which was the case! I still slept sort of outside, but it was a covered balcony and I slept very well.

I am hosted by Teemu (Finnish) and Katja (Russian) who live together in a neighbourhood not too far from the city centre. We had some interesting conversations about languages, cultures, Baltic States, Russian politics and many more subjects. I cooked dinner in the evening after I walked around Helsinki for the entire afternoon. I interviewed many friendly people, who moreover spoke English as if it were there first language. The Finnish I met so far are much more interested in the Us Europeans project which is a great mental support to me.

I have now been away for a month and a half and already completed four country. Time is going incredibly quick. I don`t keep track of the days of the week or the exact datum, but the weeks fly by. I am not thinking about home a lot, this trip somehow seems like a parallel life. I am keeping track of things, especially the news - but Holland is not top of mind. Some people ask me whether it`s not tiring to keep moving on every second day or so. Not really. I got used to it and packing my bag now feels like taking the train to work. The difference being, that I spent most of my days outside and that I talk to many different people about lots of interesting things.

I am will still be in Helsinki tomorrow morning, then do a day trip to Tampere on the way to Jyväskylä. I will attempt to travel around the Bothnic Gulf to get to Sweden by Sept 15. If I don`t make it, I will cross to Sweden by ferry Vaassa-Umeå.

That`s all for now. Photos are all from Helsinki today:

(© Helsinki - FI, September 2007)
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Reporting from Jyväskylä

Posted 17 September 2007 - Jyväskylä

I moved away from Helsinki this afternoon northbound. Now the proud owner of a three-day travel pass for the entire Finnish rail network, no comments on the cost of such a ticket, I am confident that I will make it to Lapland and around the Gulf of Bothnia to Sweden. I am now in the city of Jyväskylä (English pronounciation something like IEUW-VessKuuleah), surfing couches again. And cooking again - like I did for Teemu and Katja yesterday - I now cooked something different for my hostess Johanna, who will most probably be in tomorrow`s article on Us Europeans about how Finnish people deal with winter.

On my way to the station this morning, I got a bit upset thinking about some things in the EU that are completely ridicule and how much difference in thinking exists between the original founding members and the recently added countries. That`s all for now, I will keep the details for the 1st of October, which I will use as the next reflection day on Us Europeans.

(© Helsinki - FI, September 2007)
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Media attention

Posted 18 September 2007 - Jyväskylä (FI):

It`s slowly getting colder in Finland and I still have a long way to go further north. I am staying in Jyväskylä until Thursday and will then move on to Kuopio (a little north of here) and eventually Rovaniemi (very north of here). I hope to get a glance of the northern light, which is expected to be visible at this time of year. Also, I was told that on the first night of frost, elks are being moved from somewhere to somewhere in groups. Need to find more details about that because I expect temperatures to soon drop below 0 in the north.

I was mainly walking up and down the main street today, looking for a cafe of pub with wireless internet. Unfortunately in this case, I am no longer in Estonia. I had to use the wireless broadband device instead, the small yet very useful thingy that the people at VoipBuster provided to me before I left on this trip. I found out that media attention is slowly growing. Some websites are starting to put on the webtools I assembled for Us Europeans, and I will soon be able to post a short list of websites who did that. I may also be invited to do some presentations when I come back. That is good news. I do not have the intention to do this whole project just to satisfy my own curiosity. I hope it will also catch other people`s eye, mostly people who share the same interest but maybe do not have the possibility to carry out this trip themselves.

I have now been away for seven weeks, and it feels like I am halfway part one of the trip. Part one ends at Christmas. The feeling is not very accurate but that`s not a problem. I now have half of Finland ahead of me, Sweden, UK and then from Portugal back home. That is when it starts becoming interesting to look ahead. For now, there`s no land in sight on either side, so I am sticking to now and tomorrow. With small retrospectives every now and then, like this photo from Derry`s Bogside in Northern Ireland. Taken very far away from here, but only just over a month ago.

(© Londonderry - UK, August 2007)
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Not much news

Posted 19 September 2007 - Jyväskylä (FI):

Another day in Jyväskylä, but it`s the last one. I`m heading north-east, as planned, towards Kuopio tomorrow to find out what`s happening over there.

(© Jyväskylä - FI, September 2007)
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Sleeping and financial details

Posted 20 September 2007 - Kuopio (FI):

I got to the next stop on my list which is Kuopio. After a night out with the three English girls who where also staying at Johanna`s place, it was not very easy to get up. When I got to the train, I fell asleep, changed trains in a city starting with P, fell asleep again until I reach Kuopio. It was like supersonic flight and felt like I arrived in Kuopio even before I left Jyväskylä.

I walked to the university area to meet Panu, who will be hosting me in here. I am happy that it`s so easy here to stay at people`s places. It`s nicer, easier to get to know more about the country and also a lot cheaper. That factor in Finland is quite important, because when I looked at the hostel prices on my first day, I was scared to have to spend all two weeks in Helsinki to `save` enough money to get to Vaassa. The plan for now is to get around the entire Gulf of Bothnia and the odds look good for a timely arrival in Sweden by 1 October.

Below photo is one of the coolest I have taken since starting this trip. I am very happy with it. Nothing is happening and it is still a nice image. That`s how I like it best.

(© Kuopio - FI, September 2007)
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Sleepy train travels

Posted 22 September 2007 - Kajaani (FI):

I spent a lot of time sleeping today, mostly on the train from Kuopio to Kajaani. There is only forest on the way from one place to the other, with a small lake every now and then. The colours are fabulous but that did not keep me from falling asleep. Four nights out in a row is a bit too much for me under these circumstances - and it would have been under pretty much any other circumstance. I was invited to stay in Kajaani with Trisha (who I met at Thursday`s party) and Jani, her husband. They live just outside the city in a nice red wooden house which I will photograph tomorrow if I think of it.

We had a nice oven-baked dinner with smoked salmon and it all tasted very local and Finnish and everything! It is surprising how friendly and hospitable everybody is with little me. I hope everybody will come back so I can return the favour and if my dad is reading this: yes I know that you risk being served a glass of water and having to sit on a swinging chair with no table or having to bring your own beer (Jean ;). It all goes as it goes. I will try to improve when I come back.

Enough about that. I have also sorted out the next place. It will be Rovaniemi on the Arctic Circle. From there, I will try to make some excursions to the real Lapland before coming back south to Sweden and eventually even much more south. Hard to imagine that I will be in Portugal in one month from now!

(© Kajaani - FI, September 2007)
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Colourful Finland

Posted 23 September 2007 - Kajaani (FI):

I stayed with Jani and Trisha last night and they took me for some sight-seeing during the day. All trees have changed colours and no two trees seem to have the same colour. Green, yellow and red in all different shades. We walked near some lakes, were joined by Mari (photo at Us Europeans today), had pizza and then visited two other friends of them for coffee. A very nice way to spend a Sunday and a good alternative to tennis.

Tonight, I am staying in Kajaani but sleeping at Mari`s place instead. She lives closer to the railway station than Jani and Trisha do, which is handy because I want to catch the train at 6h22 in the morning.

(© Kajaani - FI, September 2007)
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La forme? Pas trop

Posted 24 September 2007 - Rovaniemi (FI):

I didn`t sleep a lot these last few nights, and that`s probably why I was feeling a bit shitty today. I tried to be smart when I left Helsinki, buying a three day travelling pas for 126 euros. I uses two of the days and am now stuck with another 42 euros worth of travelling, but only about 20 more needed to make it to Sweden. After spending 10 days in each of the Baltic States, it now seems long before I get to Sweden, because I basically completed the Finland itinerary. There are some things that I still want to write about but it is not very likely I will get very useful answers if I move further north. There are another 500 kilometers of Finland north of Rovaniemi and most of that is forest and rocks - and no more railways. So I can`t really decide what to do when I leave Rovaniemi on Wednedsday. Hitchhike to somewhere beautiful up north, risking to come back with no interviews? Travel back south via another route than the one I used to get here so I can save expenses in Sweden? I don`t really know.

I spent most of today on the train, and fell asleep quite frequently. The scenery is beautiful: still trees in all colours you can imagine. But ALL you can see from the train is trees so after a while it turns into this colourful fog that makes you sleepy. I was thinking of not wanting to do any interviews anymore because whatever I write remains so general and I really doubt it is useful to anybody. Fortunately, I grabbed my spirit together and asked a girl on the train about Kalevala, a Finnish book that tells stories about the Finnish culture and way of living. I thought I was going to use it for today`s article, but then my host in Rovaniemi started telling me about the Sami (indigenous people from Lappland) and then I changed my mind. I will use the collected information about the Kalevala for tomorrow.

So, I arrived in Rovaniemi, which is supposed to be the home town of Santa Claus, but I haven`t seen him hanging around in the area yet. Arriving in Rovaniemi als implies that I crossed the arctic circle - woohoo - I am further north than a good share of Greenland! Temperatures are on the decline (now around 10 degrees) and the weather has been grey all day long. I`m hoping tomorrow will be better.

(© Oulu - FI, September 2007 )
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Fire fire

Posted 25 September 2007 - Rovaniemi (FI):

As is always the case, there is sunshine after the rain. I was not very happy these last few days, having this cold that did neither change into illness nor go away, being a bit bored about the pattern of going to someone`s place after the other, being behind on the stories, not knowing which subjects to cover for the next days, how to make it to Sweden without exceding the budget and more of the same stuff. Basically: just starting to get a bit bored.

But as I said, things got a lot better since, with a surprise excursion to the Lapland forest. I will not bother you with the exact how and where, but I am now feeling a lot better, out in the open air, big woodfire, improvised but nevertheless tasty food and good company from Finland, Canada and France. I do believe again that not all of the 10 coming months will be more of the same. It`s just stupid stuff, but if you have a lot of time to think about things, that sometimes has its disadvantages too.

Well, whatever, things are good now, I hope the cold will go away and all the rest should be fine too. Greetings from Lappland!

(© Rovaniemi - FI, September 2007 )
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Still alive

Posted 26 September 2007 - Lappland (FI):

Difficult to write cause am in the middle of the forest. No worries am alive and new postings are on the way.

(© Lappland - FI, September 2007)
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Survived Lappland

Posted 27 September 2007 - Torvinen (FI):

Hi again. Sorry for being slow the last few days. I was walking around in the forest. I did have internet access (!) but no electricity so hence the delay in postings. As you may have read, I was getting bored in Rovaniemi and the idea of fellow couch surfers Philipe (see today`s interview and Etienne (FR) to go hiking somewhere north-east of Rovaniemi sounded like the perfect idea.

Philippe took Etienne, Jussi (my host in Rovaniemi) and myself to Torvinen in his small van. We visited a supermarket on the way, then disappeared in the forest where we spent one night sleeping in a cabin and eating around a fire. Jussi then left back to Rovaniemi and Philipe had work to do. Etienne and I kept walking for another two days, spending one more night in the forest.

It`s amazing how they have small houses in the forest where everybody can use the facilities free of charge. There is no supervision whatsoever, but everbody who visits cleans up after him/herself, chops some new wood - like we also did :) - and write his name in the visitor`s book. It is not possible to make reservations for the cabins. All happens on a go-and-see basis. Which can be quite a risk in some periods because the next cabin is usually at least an hours walk away.

From the second cabin, we walked all the way back to Philippe`s place, about 20-25 km, crossing two hills that were made up of rocks. We joked about Moonraker and I shot some photos. Photography at this latitude is quite difficult. There is not much light!! And this is only the start of winter. Next time I will bring a tripod.

(© Luosto - FI, September 2007)
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Sweden ahead!

Posted 29 September 2007 - Vaasa (FI):

It`s Saturday and I am having some difficulties keeping up with all the Finnish parties. Tonight was fun though: I cooked for 5 people (that`s including myself) and we were singing many songs after we finished the meal. Apart from that, no exciting news except my planned arrival in Sweden tomorrow. Yeej! A new flag in the corner of Us Europeans!!

Below photo is by now a souvenir from the Lappland hike:

(© Luosto - FI, September 2007)
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Arrived in Sweden

Posted 30 September 2007 - Umea (SE):

I got up early this morning and walked to the ferry in Vaasa. It was a bit further than I expected so I was happy to get a lift by a Swedish Finn guy who happened to be a semi-famous singer and musician. There was no border control whatsoever and the ferry was far from confomartable. I had already been warned by various people that it was not a fun crossing, like the Helsinki / Turku - Stockholm crossing is. There is no tax free shopping, just a bunch of chairs and a restaurant to keep you busy for 4.5 hours. I slept most of the time, because the three hours of sleep at night were largely insufficient. There was nothing to see on the way anyway, just fog.

Arrival at Umeå was interesting (photo below), 20 kilometers out of town but I got a ride again and made it to the city in no time. I sat down at a supermarket to check my e-mail and see if I actually had a place to stay and I got an e-mail from Elin (see photo at Us Europeans) inviting me to meet in front of the tourist office within 15 minutes of the moment I was reading the email - and I was sitting only 2 minutes away from the town hall. So that was arranged and we spent talking most of the afternoon.

(© Umea - SE, September 2007)
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